October 4-8, 2004 Katy Trail Adventure: Bike Ride Across Missouri

Click on the thumbnails in the right panel for full-sized photos

Having found the trail supper was next on the list. At an interesting eatery called The Palace we met the current owner of Rivercene, a Bed & Breakfast along the way. Early to bed, with anticipation and some trepidation was the plan for the evening. The weather looked promising and we were excited.

Day 1,  Boonville to North Jefferson 52 Miles

The morning of our first day dawned and we got up and around. While grabbing a bite before leaving for the trail we encountered two other riders also heading out that morning.  We got on the trail and made it into downtown Booneville to the old train station where Michael took a prophetic picture of the "Be Careful" warning on the MKT Caboose.  The weather was cool, we both stopped and put on our jackets before going very far.  The trail from Boonville leads across the Missouri River and into the river bottoms.  We passed the KATY Roundhouse and stopped at New Franklin where a gentleman was leaving the trail with his dog.  He said that he was finding it easier to train his dog rather than training his four kids.  He was friendly and down-home in his overalls in the cool morning air.

That morning we met "The Ladies", three women from Texas biking the KATY all appeared to be in their late 60's or early 70's.  We would catch up with them only when they were stopped to take a break.  We would get ahead of them and inevitably they would pass us by zooming on to the next spot of interest.  We arrived in Rocheport after passing by fields of harvested corn and soybeans. The soil was a deep brown, it looked almost black in the cool morning air. On arrival to Rocheport, we passed through the KATY Tunnel. The walls were made up of huge carved squares of limestone. The ceiling blackened by the years of soot from the trains was make of brick and shiny and caramelized from the years.  Rocheport, although closed on Mondays, appeared charming.  The garrulous proprietor of the Rocheport gallery explained the history of the building that  currently housed both the post office and his store. Rocheport, in its heyday, boasted 4 banks to handle the town's prosperity. The last bank to close was now home to businesses. He recommended the Trailside cafe at the edge of town. We had great burgers and split an order of fries before pushing onward.  We knew Monday was to be our hardest day and with about 50 miles total to ride. Leaving Rocheport we encountered tall bluffs along the Missouri River. There was a feeling of fall in the air but the trees were clinging stubbornly to the green foliage of late summer.  We passed through McBaine where "The Ladies" took our photo to record our progress. Shortly afterward, I began experiencing an unusual cramp in my distal thighs. We stopped at Katfish Katy's and tried our "Gu". The cramp resolved and my energy returned.  "Gu" pronounced "goo" in the chocolate variety was similar to having a helping of chocolate frosting.  So we pushed on.  We took another break at Hartsburg at the winery where we shared a basket of cheese, sausage, bread and had a beer. The break was a life-saver because we were both spent, at that point we still had 10 more miles to go! The last 10 miles was the longest of the 4 days. Each pedal was an effort. Only the thought of rest and a hot tub kept us going. Finally we were there at the North Jefferson trailhead. A phone call to the Capitol Plaza and our ride was on its way. The hot tub was wonderful and after an adult beverage, we finally began to feel human. Supper then rest, blessed rest.

Stop in New Franklin MO

Boonville's Restored Train Depot

Day 2,  North Jefferson to McKittrick 44 Miles

And on the way to Steedman my mishap occurred.  Trying for a power move and a higher gear, I landed on my bike in the center of the trail bloody and bruised.  Michael rinsed me off and doctored my leg and we rode on.  Steedman gave me a place to cry, clean my knee, and have a burger and a beer, although the Tylenol probably helped more.  Pushing through the pain, Portland, Bluffton, Rhineland, we made it to McKittrick.  In McKittrick, Michael found a kindly farmer who hauled our tired bodies and bikes across the bridge to Hermann.  We had dinner with Larry and Linda, our fellow bikers from Missouri at the Stone Hill Winery.  We had excellent German food and great company that evening.  Larry and Linda had ridden the trail 2 years previous and anticipated that they would be back again.  Sleep was elusive although fatigue was our bedtime companion.

Day 3,  McKittrick to Dutzow 27 Miles

Refreshed we headed on to Marthasville, but the custard caboose was closed on Wednesdays.  Dutzow was our stop for the day.  We enjoyed a soda while waiting at the Dutzow Deli for Carol who owns and runs the Millennium Taxi Service. She took us into Washington where a dip in the hot tub refreshed both our bodies and souls.  The staff at the Sleep Inn were jewels taking care of our bikes.  Carol took us to downtown Washington were we sat our in a courtyard watching the trains and the Missouri River pass us by.  We dined on pasta and passed the evening in peace.

Day 4, Defiance to St. Charles 25 Miles

In Saint Charles, we actually saw the train tracks of the MKT line as biked into the heart of downtown. The end of the trip or so we thought.  We got directions to our hotel while eating lunch and the fun began.  Go 4 blocks and take a left into 3 lanes of traffic. Go uphill 2 blocks in traffic and cross under I-70. Avoid the construction and closed lanes and take the access road 3 more blocks to the hotel. Whew! Safe at last!

Robin